A 4-Day Guide to Tallinn, Estonia: What to See, Do, & Eat
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Back in the 2010s, I was working a job I didn’t much care for in an office building that was, shall we say, in need of some TLC. Between the humming fluorescents and the musty air, which might or might not have been indicative of an underlying mold issue, it was far from an ideal work environment. So, I did what many a disillusioned worker does: I found a way to mentally escape. In my case, my escapism came in the form of the Amateur Traveler podcast. I listened to episodes as I typed away in my cubicle, fantasizing that I was in the faraway places they were talking about.
One day, I happened to put on an episode where they were discussing Estonia, and I was immediately intrigued. Their descriptions of Tallinn’s medieval Old Town, with its intact city walls and meandering cobblestone streets, captured my imagination, and from that day forward, it became a dream of mine to one day visit Estonia. I was fortunate enough to recently realize that dream, and I can’t wait to tell you all about my time in Tallinn. It’s a city that does not get nearly as much fanfare as it deserves.
Pressed for time?
Here are the trip highlights, but for all of the details (and an amusing anecdote or two, including my excursion to an eerie primeval forest), keep scrolling.
Getting around: Tallinn, especially its Old Town, is compact and quite walkable. When visiting sites farther away from the city center, you can take advantage of the public transit system, and for day trips from Tallinn, you can rent a car or take a train or bus.
Cellular data: Unless your phone plan includes international data, the easiest way to get data is via an eSIM. I use the app Airalo to purchase and install eSIMs on my phone, but other popular eSIM apps include Holafly, Saily, Sim Local, Roamless, and Breeze. Just make sure that your phone is eSIM-compatible before purchasing an eSIM.
Luggage, where to store thee? If you’re staying at a hotel and arrive before your check-in time, ask the front desk if they can store your luggage while you explore the city (most hotels offer this service). If you’re staying at a VRBO or Airbnb, I recommend using Bounce to find a place to temporarily store your suitcases.
Accommodations: I stayed at Hotel Telegraaf and loved its central location in Old Town.
Top 3 things to see and do: Patkuli viewing platform, Hellemann Tower and town wall walkway, and Lahemaa National Park
Favorite restaurant: Rataskaevu 16
Getting to Tallinn
How you make your way to Tallinn depends upon where you’re coming from. I was visiting Tallinn from Helsinki, so I opted for the ferry. The city can also be reached via plane, bus, train, or car (Visit Tallinn has a helpful guide on how to get to/from Estonia’s capital city).
On board the ferry from Helsinki to Tallinn.
Want to learn more about the ferry? I wrote a guide about it.
Getting Around Tallinn
Of all the cities I’ve visited, Tallinn is one of the easiest to navigate. It’s quite compact and walkable, especially in the Old Town section, and when visiting sites farther away from the city center, you can easily hop on a tram or bus. If you end up taking public transit, please remember to pay your fare because only Tallinn residents, children under seven, and passengers traveling with children can ride public transportation free of charge (please see Visit Tallinn’s website for more info on fares and how to pay them).
Meeting of the minds
→ Black Angus Sculpture // Viru 20, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia
Where to Stay
I tend to have fairly muted expectations when it comes to my accommodations. Sure, I don’t book one-star, pay-by-the-hour type of places, but I also don’t splurge on luxury resorts. Ever mindful of my budget, I seek out reasonably priced, decent-looking accommodations. Every now and then, though, the stars align, and I am able to find a lovely place for an even lovelier price — such was the case with Hotel Telegraaf.
I booked one of their “cozy comfort” rooms (i.e., their cheapest room option), but when I checked in, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that I had been upgraded to one of their more spacious executive rooms with a city view. I couldn’t believe my luck! The room was well-appointed and comfortable, and the view of Old Town from the floor-to-ceiling window was spectacular. The hotel itself was ideally located in the heart of Old Town, making it within walking distance of many of the popular attractions. Plus, the hotel features a spa, so if you feel up to it, you can treat yourself to a relaxing massage or a rejuvenating facial (my friend/part-time travel partner got a massage and loved it).
My room at Hotel Telegraaf
Where to Eat and Drink (and Be Merry) in Tallinn
For a city of its size, Tallinn boasts an impressive number of tantalizing eateries and cafés. Here are the places I ate at and enjoyed.
Rataskaevu 16
Serving up food that’s as tasty as it is pretty, Rataskaevu 16 has something for everyone. Don’t eat meat? No problem. Carnivore extraordinaire? You’re covered. My entrée, white radish served with quinoa, bell pepper, apple cream, and a red wine sauce, was a showstopper. Beautifully plated and a treat for the taste buds, it was hands down one of the best meals of my trip (just thinking about it has me salivating). Food aside, they have one of the most unique bathrooms I’ve ever been in: you get to do your business perched atop medieval ruins.
Odesa
Situated in Old Town, Odesa cooks up authentic Ukrainian fare with a side of hospitality. Shortly after being seated, we were brought a complimentary appetizer of toast topped with fish cream (sounds weird but tasted good), which we washed down with (also complimentary) shots of Ukrainian liquor. It was a simple gesture that made us feel incredibly welcomed and like we had just popped over to a friend’s house for dinner.
As for my main course, grilled halibut served over almonds and asparagus, the fish was well-cooked, being both tender and moist, and the almonds added a nice textural element to the dish. The asparagus, while flavorful, was slightly overcooked, but given that everything else I ate, including the eggplant “caviar” appetizer, was great, I gave it a pass.
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Vegan Restoran V
With its exposed wooden beams and stone walls, Vegan Restoran V has a cozy, inviting feel about it; you can’t help but feel relaxed and at ease while inside its walls. As for its food, it does not disappoint. Its menu is entirely vegan, but trust me, you won’t miss the meat. The lentil lasagna with white wine sauce was divine; I savored every single bite.
→ Vegan Restoran V // Rataskaevu tn 12, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia
Katharinenthal
This café makes for the perfect pit stop or pick-me-up while exploring the Kadriorg Palace and Art Museum and its surrounding park. Their apple pastry is chef’s kiss, with a flaky shell and a perfectly sweetened and baked apple interior. When I visited during the summer, I was able to sit outside and soak in the views (and people-watch, the ultimate form of entertainment).
→ Katharinenthal // A. Weizenbergi tn 22, 10150 Tallinn, Estonia
Pizzer
Pizzer (no, that’s not a typo) is tiny in size but mighty in flavor. Located inside a train station, it’s easy enough to pass by (I almost did), but I highly recommend you don’t. Their made-to-order, wood-fired pizza is so, so good. I ordered the mushroom and burrata pizza, and let’s just say not a slice was left. I particularly liked the crust, which had just the right amount of chew to it.
Kohvik Must Puudel
I popped in here for breakfast on my final day in Tallinn, and it proved to be a lovely send-off. The oatmeal was well-cooked; it was neither stodgy nor soupy, achieving that Goldilocks state of pleasantly chewy and thick. The rhubarb jam it came with was a nice touch, imparting the porridge with a unique taste, and the Americano I ordered was surprisingly smooth (I’ve had far too many Americanos that taste like jet fuel).
→ Kohvik Must Puudel // Kuninga tn 4, 10146 Tallinn, Estonia
Gelato Ladies
Founded in 2016 by two women who studied gelato-making in Italy, Gelato Ladies is a can’t-miss spot for ice cream lovers. Their creamy gelato is decadence in a cup. Can’t decide what flavor to get? I highly recommend pistachio (it’s divine).
Kooker
This petite stall located in Tallinn’s historic Town Hall Square bakes tiny (and delicious) pancakes. Choose from savory or sweet, and then add whatever toppings your heart desires. As someone with a sweet tooth, I opted for the sweet pancakes and topped them with homemade raspberry jam, and as soon as I finished them, I was ready for seconds.
Whisper Sister
Tucked away inside a nondescript building, Whisper Sister is a speakeasy-style bar. There are no signs; only a small placard engraved with a phone number and “Whisper Sister” marks its location. Dial the number, and you are guided into a cozy, atmospheric space with low lighting and quirky décor. Their cocktail menu is creative, but if nothing on it tickles your fancy, fear not — they also have a fairly extensive spirit list. Although not required, reservations are recommended.
O Kõrts
Okay, technically, O Kõrts is not in Tallinn, but I couldn’t not include it. If you end up doing a day trip to Lahemaa National Park, this no-frills eatery is the perfect place to grab lunch. The grilled salmon I had was delightful: perfectly cooked and nicely seasoned.
→ O Kõrts // Jõe tn 3a, Võsu, 45501 Lääne-Viru maakond, Estonia
Want to dive deeper into Tallinn’s food scene?
Book a food tour. Not only do they allow you to try a variety of foods, but they also give you the opportunity to meet and interact with a local (i.e., the guide).
The Best Things to Do in Tallinn
There are plenty of things to see and do in Tallinn; it’s a city rich in history and culture. Here’s what I got up to while in the Estonian capital.
Town Hall Square
One of the best-preserved medieval town centers in Europe, Tallinn’s Town Hall Square is a portal into the past. As you walk its perimeter, you can’t help but feel that you’ve stepped back in time — or into a fairy tale. In the winter, it transforms into a Christmas market, bedecked in lights and bursting with holiday cheer.
→ Town Hall Square (Raekoja Plats) // 10146 Tallinn, Estonia
Viru Gate
Although the gate itself is no more, the towers that once bracketed it are still standing and worth seeing. Plus, Viru Street, which runs through the gate, is lined with shops, cafés, and colorful (and fragrant) flower stands.
→ Viru Gate // Viru tänav, Müürivahe 31, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia
Short Leg Street
Short Leg Street, or Luhike Jalg, is a steep (the type of steep that makes you realize you’re not as in shape as you thought you were), picturesque alley. Get a thigh workout and a picture for the ‘Gram at the same time.
→ Short Leg Street // Luhike Jalg, Tallinn, Estonia
Now is a good time to remind you to stay hydrated while exploring Tallinn’s Old Town. I carried my Nalgene water bottle around with me in a tote bag to ensure that I always had water on hand.
Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral
Built at the turn of the century (20th century, that is), the Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral, with its domed peaks and stunning mosaics, is a sight to behold. Its beauty, however, belies its oppressive origin. The cathedral is open daily and free to the public, but please note that no photography or videography is permitted inside.
→ Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral // Lossi plats 10, 10130 Tallinn, Estonia
St. Mary’s Cathedral
More unassuming than the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, but perhaps more noteworthy, is St. Mary’s Cathedral. Dating back to the 13th century, it’s Tallinn’s oldest church, and according to good ol’ Wikipedia, it’s also the oldest church in mainland Estonia.
→ St. Mary’s Cathedral // Toom-Kooli tn 6, 10130 Tallinn, Estonia
Toompea Castle
Much like a mullet, Toompea Castle is two styles in one: modern in the front and medieval in the back. The original stone fortress was constructed in the 13th and 14th centuries, and the Baroque façade was added in the 18th century
→ Toompea Castle // Lossi plats 1a, 15165 Tallinn, Estonia
Governor’s Garden
I wouldn’t go out of your way to see the Governor’s Garden, but if you’re visiting Toompea Castle, you might as well check it out (it’s right next to it). The garden offers a nice respite from the hustle and bustle of Tallinn, and if you, like me, are into birding, you might get lucky and see a bird or two (I did).
→ Governor’s Garden // Lossi plats 1a, 15165 Tallinn, Estonia
St. Catherine’s Passage (Katariina Käik)
With its overhanging arches and surrounding brick walls, Katariina Käik is a beautifully preserved medieval alley. As you amble down its cobblestones, you can’t help but feel that you’ve been whisked back several centuries. When I first saw it, I audibly gasped, for I’d never seen anything like it — and haven’t since.
→ St. Catherine’s Passage // Vene tn 14a, 10123 Tallinn, Estonia
St. Olaf’s Church
Tallinn’s largest medieval building, St. Olaf’s Church dates back to the 13th century. The church features a 60-meter-high viewing platform, open from April to October and accessible via 258 steps. While I was unable to go inside the building (I arrived after closing time), I was still able to appreciate the church and its soaring spire from the outside. That said, you better believe I’ll be climbing to the tippity top next time I’m in Tallinn.
→ St. Olaf’s Church // Lai 50, 10133 Tallinn, Estonia
Patkuli Viewing Platform
I might have missed out on the view from St. Olaf’s, but I was still able to soak in the sights of Old Town from the Patkuli Viewing Platform. Perched atop Toompea Hill, this lookout offers a breathtaking panorama of the medieval city. You do have to climb a fair number of steps (157, to be precise), but the view from the top is certainly worth the exertion.
→ Patkuli Viewing Platform // Rahukohtu tn 5, 10130 Tallinn, Estonia
Helleman Tower and Town Wall
I felt a bit like a member of the Night’s Watch as I walked along Tallinn’s medieval city wall — sadly, though, there was no Jon Snow waiting for me at the end 😆. Jokes aside, strolling down the city wall was a truly unique experience that allowed me to momentarily imagine myself back in the age of knights and kings. Moreover, from the top of Helleman Tower, I was afforded a lovely view of Old Town, which made the climb up the steep, slippery, and too-narrow-for-my-feet stone staircase worthwhile. I tell you, I’ve never held onto a railing as tightly as I did that rope railing on that staircase, but I would climb that sketchy staircase again in a heartbeat.
Side note: As of the writing of this article, the admission fee to the tower and town wall is payable by cash only.
→ Helleman Tower and Town Wall // Müürivahe 48, 10140 Tallinn, Estonia
Get Lost (Figuratively Speaking) in Old Town
Don’t forget to simply soak in the sights and sounds of Old Town. Meander down its narrow streets, pop into its quaint shops, and just be. When visiting a city for the first time, it’s easy to get caught up in the whirlwind of sightseeing, fretting over visiting places so you can cross them off your list, but when that happens, you lose sight of what really matters: experiencing the location and enjoying yourself. So, spend at least a couple of hours exploring Old Town without a set itinerary.
→ Old Town (Vanalinn) // Tallinn, Estonia
Kadriorg Park
Located outside of Old Town and accessible by tram is Kadriorg Park, which spans roughly 173 acres. It’s a verdant oasis boasting flower gardens, monuments, walking trails, and a palace (more on that below). I found it to be a tranquil, peaceful retreat from the tourist-filled Old Town.
→ Kadriorg Park // L. Koidula tn 34a, 10150 Tallinn, Estonia
Unsolicited travel tip time
Purchase travel insurance. Much like any insurance, you hope you never have to use it, but when you do have to use it, you’re glad you’ve got it. I’ve used Generali on my last few trips, but other popular options include Faye, World Nomads, and Trawick.
Kadriorg Art Museum
Remember that palace I mentioned? Well, it houses the Kadriorg Art Museum. It’s small but still worthwhile, with a respectable collection of Western European and Russian art. Its main appeal, however, is not the art it houses but rather the building itself. The Baroque palace was commissioned by Czar Peter the Great and features a gorgeous interior, including the showstopping main hall. It’s an enjoyable way to pass an hour.
→ Kadriorg Art Museum // A. Weizenbergi tn 37, 10127 Tallinn, Estonia
Lahemaa National Park
I try to sneak in at least one outdoorsy activity on every trip (usually to the chagrin of whomever I’m traveling with), and for Estonia, it was hiking in Lahemaa National Park, the country’s largest park. There are numerous trails to choose from, ranging from short, one-hour walks to multi-mile treks. I opted for the Viru Bog Nature Trail, an approximately 2-mile out-and-back trail that meanders through the Viru Bog and culminates in a watchtower serving up panoramic views of the surrounding area. A word to the wise: bring bug spray and sunscreen.
I also attempted the Oandu Natural Forest Trail but only made it about an eighth of the way before turning back. While the old-growth forest that the trail cut through was absolutely stunning, it was also completely unsettling. The start of the trail, a dirt path through open forest, was fine, but once we descended a set of stairs to a wooden boardwalk, the woods closed in on us, becoming overgrown to the point where you couldn’t see more than a foot or two to either side. That alone put me on edge, but when the forest became unnaturally quiet, I experienced a primal fear I’d never felt before (and hope to never feel again). In that moment, I knew we were being watched, and I also knew that we needed to get out of there stat unless we wanted to risk becoming prey to one of the lynxes, bears, or wolves that call the park home.
Now, to be clear (and to not turn you off entirely from hiking the Oandu Natural Forest Trail): just because this happened to me doesn’t mean it’ll happen to you. We hiked the trail on a Thursday afternoon and were consequently the only ones on the trail. Had we attempted the trail at a busier time, such as a Saturday afternoon, or with a larger group of people, perhaps things would’ve gone differently. It’s also important to remember that encountering wildlife is a risk you run when hiking, which is why it’s so important to educate yourself on the area’s wildlife, take the necessary precautions, and always be vigilant + aware of your surroundings. Okay, off my soapbox.
→ Lahemaa National Park // HQ9J+3C Vihasoo, Harju County, Estonia
Jägala Waterfall
I wouldn’t go out of your way to see Jägala Waterfall (it’s no Niagara Falls), but if you’re going to Lahemaa, it’s worth a quick detour. It’s Estonia’s widest natural waterfall.
→ Jägala Waterfall // Kubja tee, Jägala-Joa, 74212 Harju maakond, Estonia
My Itinerary
Wondering how I structured my time in Tallinn? Well, I shall satisfy your curiosity, for here is what I got up to each and every day.
Day 1
Morning: Traveled to Tallinn and checked into my hotel
Afternoon: Lunch at Rataskaevu 16 and explored Old Town
Evening: Dinner at Odessa and Patkuli Viewing Platform
Day 2
Morning: Succumbed to jet lag and slept in
Afternoon: Brunch at Vegan Restoran V, Helleman Tower and Town Wall, Domus Linum (yarn shop), Kadriorg Park and Art Museum, and matcha latte + pastry break at Kohvik Café
Evening: Dinner at Pizzer, gelato at Gelato Ladies, and nightcap at Whisper Sister
Day 3
Morning: Breakfast at Café Grenka*, drove to Viru Bog in Lahemaa National Park, and walked the Viru Bog Nature Trail
Afternoon: Lunch at O Kõrts, the ill-fated hike on the Oandu Natural Forest Trail, and a pit stop at Jägala Waterfall
Evening: Dinner (takeout) from Elevant* and mini pancakes at Kooker
Day 4
Morning: Breakfast at Kohvik Must Puudel, souvenir shopping for family + friends, and bid adieu to Tallinn
*If you’re wondering why these restaurants didn’t appear up above in my list of places to eat at, it’s because the food was just okay.
Other Helpful Tips and Tidbits
Hmm, what can I say that hasn’t already been said? I’ve covered the most important bits, but here are a couple of other things worth noting:
Due to its high latitude, Tallinn likely has a different sunrise-and-sunset schedule than you’re used to. For instance, when I visited in early June, the sun didn’t set until around 10:30pm (for reference, the photo I posted above of the view from the Patkuli Viewing Platform was taken at 10:20pm). Conversely, if you visit in the winter, you can expect an early sunset, potentially closer to 3:30pm.
While most places did accept credit cards, I did occasionally encounter places that were cash only, such as the Hellemann Tower and Town Wall.
In Tallinn, I found English to be widely spoken, but as I have noted before, it never hurts to learn a phrase or two in the local language.
And there we have it: my guide to four days in Tallinn. I hope that it has helped you plan your own trip to Estonia, and as always, if you have any questions, feel free to ask them in the comments section!
Happy travels!
Heading to Tallinn? This 4-day guide (based on my own experience) goes over what to see and where to eat + stay in the Estonian capital.