Helsinki in June: The Perfect 7-Day Itinerary
Canoeing in Nuuksio National Park
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Helsinki might not be at the top of many travel bucket lists, but it should be. Finland’s capital city is abounding with things to see, do, and eat (Google korvapuusti). Its many islands and proximity to two national parks make it an ideal getaway for nature lovers, and its nearness to Tallinn allows for a single or multi-day excursion to the Estonian capital.
Have I convinced you yet to plan a Helsinki holiday? If so, read on to see what I got up to when I visited Helsinki last summer with my husband.
Pressed for time?
Here are the trip highlights, but for all the details and some amusing anecdotes (like me trying tar-flavored candy), keep scrolling.
Getting around — Within Helsinki, we primarily walked, but for longer distances, we took either public transit (tram, bus, or ferry) or a cab (if we were running late). To get to/from Nuuksio National Park, we rented a car, using KAYAK to compare rates and find the best deal.
Cellular data — To get data on our phones, we used Airalo, an app that allows you to purchase and easily install eSIMs.*
*Please note that Airalo will only work if you have an eSIM-compatible phone.
Luggage, where to store thee? — Fortunately, we arrived after our accommodations’ check-in times and were able to simply drop off our luggage in our room, but on previous (and subsequent) trips, that has not been the case. Whenever we arrive before our check-in time, we use Bounce to find a place to temporarily store our luggage.
Accommodations — For the first part of our trip, we stayed at an Airbnb in the Kamppi neighborhood. For the latter half, we stayed at the Scandic Helsinki Hub hotel.
Top 3 things to see and do — Red Umbrella walking tour of Helsinki, Nuuksio National Park, and Suomenlinna
Favorite restaurant — Thai Vegan Kitchen
Day 0, Thursday: Travel Day
As is our wont whenever we travel to Europe, we’d booked an overnight flight. The first leg of the journey, a flight to Reykjavik, was scheduled to depart at 8:50pm, so we arrived at Logan Airport a little after 6:00pm. After making it through security, we grabbed an overpriced caprese sub from Monica’s Mercato for $19, which was up $1.75 from when we’d last had one before our flight to Amsterdam. Unwilling to spend nearly $40 on two so-so subs, we decided to split one and supplement it with a couple of bags of chips.
We then waited at the gate for the next hour until boarding began at 8:00pm. Our plane left on time at ten to 9:00, and I sleeplessly passed the next five-and-a-half hours in my cramped coach-class seat. I had attempted to fall asleep, but the bin-slamming woman in front of me saw to it that I remained awake.
Day 1, Friday: Airport Adventures and Arrival in Helsinki
We landed in Reykjavik at 6:00am local time (a.k.a. 2:00am EDT) and drowsily disembarked the plane. Once inside Keflavik Airport, we became confused about where to go. Our gate had not yet been announced (and would not be until 20 minutes before boarding), so we were unsure whether we should remain in the current terminal and wait for our gate announcement or make our way to passport control, which is where many of our former plane mates were headed. Neither of us was willing to risk an incorrect guess, so we asked an airport employee at a help desk whether we were supposed to go through customs now or in Finland. She indicated the former, so we wheeled our suitcases on down to passport control, which turned out to be quite the ordeal. Only two customs agents were working, so you can imagine how long it took to attain our passport stamps.
Eventually, though, we cleared customs and grabbed a couple of surprisingly good open-faced shrimp-and-egg sandwiches for breakfast. We nibbled away on them while waiting for our gate announcement.
In typical fashion, our gate ended up being on the opposite end of the terminal, so we got in our daily steps and then some, making our way there. Once there, we had to take a bus to the plane, which was parked on the tarmac, and then climb up a flight of stairs (while carrying our suitcases) to board the plane. It was as fun as it sounds.
Helpful Tidbit
This jetway-free, haul-yourself-and-your-luggage-up-the-stairs style of flying is quite common throughout Europe, so keep that in mind when packing for your next European getaway.
I managed to get a couple of hours of sleep during this next leg of our journey, though it was not continuous. My nap was punctuated by colicky baby-induced wake-ups. It also didn’t help that the plane had comparable humidity levels to Death Valley. By the time we landed, my hands were cracked and bleeding, my eyes felt like they were coated in sand, and my hair was staticky beyond tamability.
Needless to say, I was relieved when we landed and bade adieu to the plane. From the gate, we followed signs for the bus station, which was located outside the arrivals hall. After a few minutes’ wait, we boarded the #600 bus to Helsinki City Center, and about 40 minutes later, we were in the Finnish capital. And a short subway ride after that, we were at our Airbnb in the Kamppi neighborhood.
Waiting for the #600 bus into Helsinki
Helpful Tidbit
Tickets for the #600 bus can be purchased online or at kiosks in the bus station. We opted for the latter. For more information on transit to and from Helsinki Airport, see Finavia’s website.
Also, if you’re staying at a Vrbo or Airbnb and arrive before your check-in time, you can use Bounce to temporarily store your luggage. If you’re staying at a hotel, ask the front desk if they can store your luggage until check-in.
After checking into our Airbnb and dropping off our suitcases, we moseyed on over to Lazy Fox for some much-needed, non-airport food. They serve breakfast all day, so, of course, I had to partake. I ordered the Veggie Fox, a vegetarian take on the full English breakfast, and it was quite good. The hearty meal was exactly what I needed after a full day of traveling.
The Veggie Fox — yum!
Refueled and energized (at least, for the time being), we wanted to start exploring the city, but we only managed to walk through Old Church Park (Vanha Kirkkopuisto) before the heavens opened up. As we had brought neither our umbrellas nor raincoats with us (we had neglected to check the forecast and had left them back at the Airbnb), we returned to our home for the next few days, popping into a grocery store along the way to buy some breakfast supplies.
Strolling through Old Church Park
Once back at our Airbnb, the burst of energy we had gained from dinner dissipated, and we barely managed to brush our teeth before zonking out at 8:00pm.
Day 2, Saturday: Pastries, City Tour, Art, and a Reunion 15 Years in the Making
With the seven-hour time difference between Boston and Helsinki, jet lag was a real issue. After passing out at 8:00pm the previous night, we woke up at 3:00am and tried to fall back asleep, only to wake up again at 5:30am. Realizing that any further attempts at sleep would be futile, we lugged ourselves out of bed and whipped up a quick breakfast of oatmeal with fresh fruit. We were both in dire need of coffee, but alas, all of the coffee shops were closed until 8:00am. So, we relaxed at our Airbnb for the next couple of hours, watching shows on Netflix and YouTube to pass the time.
Relaxing with Seinfeld
When at last 8:00am rolled around, my husband set out to procure us a couple of coffees (well, Americanos) from a nearby location of Robert’s Coffee. Despite being a chain, the Americanos were decent, and more importantly, they fulfilled their purpose: imbuing us with energy.
Feeling less like zombies and more like ourselves, we left our Airbnb a little after 10:00am and walked to Ekberg, Helsinki’s oldest café and bakery. As it had been over four hours since we’d last eaten, we needed a pick-me-up to hold us over until lunch, and what better pick-me-up is there than freshly baked pastries? Deciding what pastries to purchase was no easy feat (everything looked scrumptious), but ultimately, we settled on a couple of korvapuustis, Finnish cinnamon rolls, and several cinnamon doughnut holes.
An oh-so-tasty korvapuusti. I really wish I could reach into the screen and pull this out 🤤
Having placated our stomachs, we left Ekberg and made our way to the Havis Amanda, a fountain located at the end of Esplanade Park (Esplanadi or “Espa”). The fountain typically features a statue of a mermaid at its center, but that had been temporarily removed for conservation work, resulting in a somewhat underwhelming sight.
The Havis Amanda sans mermaid
Fortunately, the Havis Amanda was not our true destination; it was simply a meeting point. Our 11:00am walking tour with Red Umbrella Tours would be starting from there. The tour began a few minutes late (we were waiting on a couple of stragglers) and lasted approximately two hours. It was both engaging and informative. We visited many of the city’s most famous sites, including the Helsinki Cathedral, National Library of Finland, Bank of Finland, and Uspenski Cathedral. Whenever possible, we went inside the buildings, and regardless of whether we were inside or outside, our tour guide provided us with a brief history of each location.
Uspenski Cathedral
At one point, our guide even gave us the opportunity to try tar (yes, you read that right) flavored candy, and while the Finns might love it, I don’t. It had the unstomachable combination of being both smoky and overly salty, and as if that weren’t enough, it had licorice undertones. I spit it out as soon as a trash can presented itself.
Helpful Tidbit
The Red Umbrella Tour is technically free, but a tip should be provided at the end. Reservations are required and can easily be made online.
Helsinki Cathedral
After all that walking, we had worked up quite the appetite, so we headed to Old Market Hall to hopefully get lunch at one of their many food stalls. Unfortunately, every other tourist in Helsinki had the same idea, and as neither of us felt like waiting an indeterminably long period of time for food, we enacted Plan B (a.k.a., we pulled out our phones and looked up restaurants on Google Maps). We found a nearby place called The Cock (yes, really) and made our way there.
The restaurant had an eclectic, vibrant interior and mellow vibe. It was fairly empty when we arrived around half past one, so we were able to be seated immediately. I ordered mussels, which came served in a white wine sauce with a side of fries and bread (because why have one carb when you can have two?). The portions were surprisingly generous, and the mussels were delectable – so delectable that I ended up overeating and felt a bit like the Michelin Man as I waddled out of the restaurant.
The delicious mussels from The Cock with a cameo by my husband’s elbows 😆
We walked off some, albeit a minuscule amount, of lunch as we made our way to the Ateneum, one of the three museums comprising the Finnish National Gallery. We spent a little over an hour exploring the museum and its collection of artwork spanning several hundred years, and while I enjoyed my time there overall, I cannot say that it was worth the €40 (€20 per adult) admission price. For perspective, we paid about the same amount when we visited the Louvre, the world’s largest art museum. We spent five hours at the Louvre, compared to the one hour we spent at the Ateneum.
Helpful Tidbit
As of the publishing of this post, an adult ticket to the Ateneum costs €22, but you can save €2 by purchasing the ticket ahead of time online. An adult ticket to the Louvre costs €22. Please consult each museum’s website for the most up-to-date ticket prices.
From the Garden: Flowers and Birds by Ferdinand von Wright, 1853-1854. As a bird lover, this was easily my favorite painting at the Ateneum.
Having been up for going on 12 hours, we decided to head back to the Airbnb to relax for a little bit before eventually making our way to the Kamppi district for some light shopping. Specifically, we were in need of warmer jackets because our fleeces, although perfectly adequate for Boston, proved inefficient against the chilly Baltic Sea air. We were able to find more suitable outerwear in relatively short order, and with our new coats donned, we walked back to our Airbnb.
Helpful Tidbit
Learn from my mistake and pack a windbreaker that you can layer over a fleece jacket or sweater.
A little after 7:00pm, we grabbed takeout from Levant, a nearby Middle Eastern restaurant. I ordered the vegan meze (falafel, hummus, marinated vegetables, tabouleh, and baba ganoush), and it was okay – nothing to write home about but will do in a pinch. We ate our dinner while watching The Reluctant Traveler’s Finland episode (how apropos, right?).
Almost immediately after finishing our meal, we had to head out again, as we were meeting a former classmate of mine at 8:00pm. It had been over 15 years since I had last seen her, and we spent the next three hours talking and catching up on everything we had been up to. In short, it was a wonderful evening.
On our walk back to our Airbnb, we were provided with free entertainment in the form of hordes of young carousers getting up to mischief, including but not limited to drunken singing and climbing up onto the doors of restaurants. According to my friend, it was high school graduation weekend, and every year, graduates sporting white Lakki caps, naval-looking hats, roam the streets partying. None of the guides I’d read had mentioned this, so I was caught off guard by the somewhat chaotic celebration.
Away from the mayhem and back in the quiet of our home-away-from-home, we finished the episode of The Reluctant Traveler that we had started earlier before calling it a night and heading to bed.
Day 3, Sunday: Historic Fort, Outdoor Market, Chocolate, and the Quintessential Finnish Activity – Sauna
Due to the continued effects of jet lag and our latish night, we got a later start than intended, waking up shortly before 11:00am. Our first order of business was to make breakfast (or perhaps, brunch would be a more appropriate descriptor given the time). As with the previous day, we cooked up some oatmeal and topped it with fresh strawberries and bananas, and we ate it while watching part of another episode of The Reluctant Traveler.
Once we had finished eating, we set out to procure some coffee. We settled on Café Esplanad, as it was on the way to the docks, where we planned to catch a ferry to Suomenlinna. As we were not in a rush (for once), we sat down and sipped our coffees at a leisurely pace, soaking in the café’s relaxed atmosphere.
Café Esplanad
With a little more pep in our step, we left the café and continued toward the docks, taking a scenic walk through Esplanadi. At the end of the park, we came across a surprising sight: a motorcade of classic American cars. For a moment, I thought I was back stateside.
Time warp on the streets of Helsinki
A few short minutes later, and we were at the docks by Market Square. We purchased tickets for the Suomenlinna ferry at one of the kiosks and opted for two day tickets rather than two single-use tickets, as they were more cost-effective.
Helpful Tidbit
An AB day ticket allows unlimited travel for 24 hours in the A and B zones for not only the ferry but also the trams, buses, commuter trains, and metro. At the time of our visit, an AB day ticket cost €9 vs €6 for a single-use ticket. For the most up-to-date ticket info, please consult HSL Ferry’s website.
The ferry ride was pleasantly unremarkable with an on-time departure and smooth sailing. It was also quite short, lasting only 15 minutes, but its brevity did not lessen the beauty of the passing scenery, including the many tiny islands scattered throughout the harbor.
A tiny (and by the looks of it, private) island in Helsinki Harbor
We spent the next two-and-a-half hours exploring the island, strolling down dirt and cobblestone paths past the various buildings and fortifications comprising the historic sea fortress. Along the way, we took in the unparalleled views of Helsinki and its harbor, and we even managed to spot several new (to us) bird species, including the great tit, an adorable little bird with a silly name.
Building on the Länsi-Musta island of Suomenlinna
Suomenlinna is more than just a tourist attraction, though; it is home to around 800 full-time residents. Signs of its habitation are everywhere: overloaded bike racks, a grocery store teeming with patrons, families coming and going from their homes, and even several eateries, including Viaporin Deli and Café, where we stopped for lunch. The café was empty, save for two other people, when we arrived, and the pickings were somewhat slim given our dietary restrictions. We ended up settling on a couple of vegan sandwiches, which consisted of slices of tomato, cucumber, and radish on whole wheat bread with beet hummus and lettuce. While they fulfilled their purpose of satiating our hunger, they were far from extraordinary. The bread was soggy, which, combined with the pasty hummus, made for a rather stodgy sandwich. Oh well.
The vegan sandwich from Viaporin Deli and Cafe
Once we had had our fill of the island, we headed back to the main dock to catch the return ferry to Helsinki. We arrived just as the ferry was pulling away, so we had to wait for the next one. Thankfully, it was a short wait; another boat docked ten minutes later.
Soaking in the gorgeous views from Suomenlinna
And 15 minutes after that, we were back in Helsinki. My husband was eager to try some salmon soup, a traditional Finnish dish, so we walked to the Old Market Hall, where we knew there was a vendor selling the fish stew. Sadly, the market was closed, so we retraced our steps back toward the docks to see if Kauppatori, an open-air market adjacent to the harbor, had any salmon soup. We found a stall called Café Emma that did, in fact, sell salmon soup, but as luck would have it, they had recently sold the last of their soup. As we were hungry and unsure if we’d be able to easily find any salmon soup nearby, we accepted defeat – for the time being – and ordered a salmon platter each, which comprised a generous portion of grilled salmon and healthy servings of pan-fried potatoes and sautéed vegetables. The food was so delicious that we were almost glad that the salmon soup had been sold out; otherwise, we would have missed out on what ended up being one of the best meals of the trip. And it was only €18 a plate.
This photo doesn’t do the salmon platter justice, but it’s the best I could do.
Bursting at our seams, we decided to head back to our Airbnb to relax and allow the food to digest, but first, we had to do something very important: purchase chocolate from a Fazer Café. All of the guides we’d read about Helsinki listed trying Fazer Chocolate as a must-do activity, and as both my husband and I are chocoholics, we were all too happy to oblige. We showed tremendous restraint and only bought one chocolate bar, a milk chocolate bar with chopped-up bits of biscuit (the European meaning of biscuit, that is, not fluffy buttermilk biscuits). It was divine: creamy, smooth, and flavorful, with a nice crunch from the biscuit pieces.
Once back at our Airbnb, we relaxed for a while, watching several episodes of Seinfeld. A little after 9:00pm, we headed down to the basement of the apartment building in which our Airbnb was located to explore the trash and recycling room. Just kidding, obviously – or, at least, I hope it’s obvious 😆 Our actual destination was the sauna, which, for €15, we were able to reserve for an hour. I was a tad apprehensive about trying the sauna, as I typically don’t fare well in heat. I, however, ended up enjoying myself. We were able to adjust the heat to a comfortable temperature, and the entire experience (sauna, cool down, and relaxation) felt invigorating. I am a sauna convert.
The sauna — pure bliss
Before hitting the hay, we watched an episode of – you guessed it – The Reluctant Traveler, which had become the unofficial show of our trip.
Day 4, Monday: Artisanal Coffee, National Park, and the Best Thai Food I’ve Ever Had
Whoever designed our apartment had clearly lacked foresight. They did not include an air conditioner, which is standard enough practice in Europe, but they also neglected to provide a functioning window. The only way to get any degree of air circulation was to open the door to the balcony, which was fine during the day but not so much at night when all the bugs came out to play. Pair that poor airflow with the building’s considerable insulation, and you can begin to understand why I had a restless night’s sleep. When my alarm went off at 8:30am, I felt like an extra from Dawn of the Dead.
Zombies or not, however, we had places to be and a rental car to pick up. So, get up we did, and while I made breakfast (good ol’ oatmeal) and packed lunch (veggie sandwiches), my husband left to pick up the aforementioned rental car. After scarfing down our breakfast, we loaded ourselves, our sandwiches, snacks, and several bottles of water into the car, and off we went to Nuuksio National Park with a pitstop to Kaffa Roastery on our way out of the city. As we were pressed for time, we got our coffees to-go, but it would’ve been nice to sip on our coffees inside the café and soak in the space’s relaxed atmosphere.
Our favorite coffee shop in Helsinki: Kaffa Roastery
The drive to Nuuksio was fairly straightforward and short, taking a little under 40 minutes, but despite its proximity to Helsinki, it felt like another world – a verdant wilderness wonderland.
Hard to believe that this is less than an hour’s drive from the hustle and bustle of Helsinki
We parked at the Haukkalampi Small Parking Lot, and there were plenty of spaces available when we arrived. We then made our way to the trailhead for the Korpikierros Trail, a 4.5-mile loop trail we had chosen for its doable length and varied landscape. The trail skirted lakes, meandered through forests, traversed smooth rockfaces, and plodded along over boardwalks and bridges. The scenery was gorgeous, and the sounds of chirping birds, buzzing insects, and gravel crunching under our boots lulled me into a sense of calm. Nothing can soothe the soul quite like nature.
Portion of the Korpikierros Trail
About an hour into the hike, we stopped for lunch along a lake and enjoyed this picturesque view while we munched away on our sandwiches.
Lunch with a view
We continued to hike for another hour and 45 minutes, and we loved every minute of it. In addition to the spectacular scenery, the trail afforded us ample bird-watching opportunities (what can I say, once you turn 30, the birding bug strikes), and the trail itself was well-maintained and fairly flat with only 311 feet of elevation gain. It was also not heavily trafficked, which made it all the more enjoyable; few things put a greater damper on hiking than finding yourself on the same trail as several hundred of your closest friends.
Helpful Tidbit
Owing to rocks and roots, the trail path can be uneven at times, so I highly recommend wearing a pair of hiking boots (my current pair is Hoka’s Anacapa Breeze Low). I’d also recommend wearing sunscreen and bug spray. Oh, and if you’re worried about bathrooms, you needn’t be. I saw several outhouses along the trail.
Why yes, those are birds on my phone case 🐦
Links to my outfit: Sunglasses / Shirt / Pants / Watch
After hiking, we decided to splurge and rent a canoe for €29 for one hour. Was it a rip-off? Absolutely, but how often do you get to go canoeing in Finland? So, we handed over our credit card, paid the exorbitant fee, and spent the next hour paddling around the Haukkalampi Pond, which was more akin to a small lake than a pond. It was fairly windy out on the water, so we had to be vigilant about monitoring and correcting our course. Fortunately, this was not our first time in a canoe (we periodically go canoeing on the Charles in Boston, plus my husband has been canoeing since he was a child), so we were able to handle the wind without any issue. At one point, we came across a public dock and stopped there for several minutes to rest and fully take in our surroundings.
Helpful Tidbit
We rented our canoe from Natura Viva, located inside the café near the bathrooms and parking lot.
Gorgeous view from our canoe
We returned our canoe as close to the hour mark as we could manage (gotta get our money’s worth) and then began the drive back to Helsinki.
Once back in Helsinki, we returned our rental car and walked back to our Airbnb. By then, I was smelling less-than-fresh, to put it mildly, so I quickly showered before donning some clean clothes and joining my husband for dinner at Thai Vegan Kitchen. Little did we know, this would turn out to be one of our favorite – if not our favorite – meals of the trip. Everything, from the fried chickpea tofu appetizer that we shared to my Pad Thai and iced apricot tea, was heavenly. The Pad Thai was light-years better than the off-puttingly sweet variety I can get back home.
Helpful Tidbit
Thai Vegan Kitchen is a popular spot, so don’t be surprised if you have to wait for a table.
My Pad Thai dinner from Thai Vegan Kitchen
Pleasantly full, we returned “home” for the evening and headed to bed early, as we had an early-morning ferry to catch the next day.
Day 5, Tuesday: Tallinn Interlude
After another unsurprisingly poor night’s sleep (the lack of airflow struck again), we begrudgingly pulled ourselves out of bed at 6:00am. Once all ready and packed up, we then took a cab (via Bolt) to the West Terminal 2 ferry port to catch our ferry to Tallinn.
I’ll be writing about our ferry ride as well as our time in Tallinn in separate posts, so stay tuned!
Tallinn’s city walls (well, a portion of them)
Day 6, Friday: Back to Helsinki
Three days later, we returned to Helsinki after a wonderful time in Tallinn. Our ferry pulled into port at quarter after 2:00pm, and we took the tram from the ferry port to our hotel, Scandic Helsinki Hub. The tram ride was fairly quick, taking only 15 minutes, and it was a straight shot to our hotel, dropping us off less than a minute’s walk away. The only downside to the tram was that there wasn’t anywhere to store our roller suitcases, and owing to the step-up design of the seats, we couldn’t hold them in front of us either. So, my husband had to stand by the door with our suitcases – less than ideal, but at least it was only for 15 minutes.
We checked into our hotel around 2:45pm and were pleasantly surprised to hear that we had received a free room upgrade. Instead of staying in a standard room with a view of the next-door building, we’d be staying in a superior room with a view of the city – not too shabby, hub?
Our room at the Scandic Helsinki Hub
We relaxed in the room, recharging both ourselves and our phones before setting out to get something to eat. My husband was still on a mission to try salmon soup, so we decided to try our luck at Old Market Hall once more, and this time, Lady Luck was smiling down upon us. We found seating at the stall we had attempted to eat at on our second day in the city, Scandinavia Café, and at last, my husband was able to sample some salmon soup. And yes, it was worth the wait. It was hearty and flavorful with a good portion of salmon. It soothed my body as well as my mind, comforting me with each spoonful.
The creamy and oh-so-delicious salmon soup
Content and satiated, we walked to the National Library, which we had viewed from the outside during our walking tour of the city but had been unable to go inside (it had been closed). This time around, however, it was open, so we were able to go inside. Before we could begin exploring the building, however, we had to first stash our coats and bags in a locker. Similar to the Library of Congress, you are not allowed to bring them into the library. Laptops and phones, however, are permitted inside.
We spent the next half hour or so exploring the library, wandering through its rooms and stacks. It was a beautiful space, and I’d love to return one day and curl up in one of its many nooks with a good book.
Looking up inside the National Library
From the library, we walked to a nearby Fazer Café to buy some more chocolate for ourselves as well as our family back home. With a borderline overwhelming amount of flavor options, it was hard to decide what to get, but we ultimately settled on three: strawberry and vanilla, cinnamon roll, and dark chocolate. For our family, we kept it classic and got them plain milk chocolate.
After dropping our precious cargo off at the hotel (we didn’t want to end up with melted chocolate), we checked out some of the local shops, beginning with a couple of second-hand clothing stores. The first place we visited, Birka Second Hand (note: according to Google Maps, Birka Second Hand is permanently closed), had a nice selection but was a tad too pricey. The second place, UFF, was more affordable but did not have a great selection; I found many of the items rather garish. The third place, Vero Moda, was our Goldilocks: a good selection of items at reasonable prices. We went to the Vero Moda location at Kamppi Helsinki, a mall in the – you guessed it – Kamppi neighborhood. I found a cute green button-up shirt and a cozy oversized sweater, so it was a successful shopping trip.
Back at our hotel, we took a quick tea break (because tea is life) before heading out for dinner. Our destination was none other than Thai Vegan Kitchen, where we had eaten several days prior. We simply could not leave the country before eating there once more, and given our busy schedule the next day, we knew that it was now or never. As with our previous meal at Thai Vegan Kitchen, everything we ate was delicious.
Phad Sii Iu with tofu and Dim Sum Hernis
We ended our evening back at the hotel, watching Finnish TV while sipping away on ginger tea.
Day 7, Saturday: Final Day in Helsinki – Seurasaari, Dessert at Regatta Café, and Pics with Sibelius
We began our final day in Helsinki with a “free” continental breakfast at our hotel. Given my previous experience with continental breakfasts, I kept my expectations low, but I ended up being pleasantly surprised. Instead of a sad array of stale bread, sugary cereal, and overly ripe fruit, there was an impressive spread of food, ranging from vegan chia pudding and sliced watermelon to freshly prepared crepes and scrambled eggs. The number of options was so plentiful as to be almost overwhelming. As for the quality of the food, it was actually quite good. Sure, some of the dishes could’ve been a touch warmer, but for free hotel fare, it was more than satisfactory.
The breakfast buffet at the Scandic Helsinki Hub
Following breakfast, we walked to Kaffa Roastery. We had so enjoyed our coffees from there earlier in the week that we couldn’t help but return once more, and this time, we wanted to enjoy our coffees at leisure inside the café. We each ordered a medium-roast pour-over coffee, and both of the coffees were meticulously prepared by the barista, who used a scale to ensure precise measurements of both the water and coffee grounds. While waiting for our coffees, we perused the selection of bagged whole-bean coffees and ended up grabbing a couple to take home. We then spent the next half hour or so sipping our coffees and soaking in the café’s relaxed atmosphere.
Our coffee at Kaffa Roastery. How cute are these mugs?
Fed and caffeinated, we left Kaffa to make our way to Seurasaari, an island and open-air museum containing a collection of historical buildings from across Finland. Our original plan was to rent a couple of bikes and pedal our way there, but that plan fell through when we realized that all of the prompts on the bikes’ screens were in Finnish. We even tried registering for the bikes on our computer back at the hotel, but that proved fruitless as well. Not wanting to waste any more time on the bikes, we decided to admit defeat and call a Bolt (Europe’s version of Uber). Fourteen minutes later, we were at Seurasaari.
Colorful building on Seurasaari
Much like Mackinac Island here in the States, Seurasaari is car-free, but the Finnish island takes it a step further by prohibiting bikes as well. So, the only way to get around is by foot, and your pedestrian journey begins by walking across the bridge that connects the island to the mainland.
Helpful Tidbit
There is no entrance fee to Seurasaari; you are free to walk around and explore the island as you please. If, however, you wish to enter any of the historic buildings, you will need to pay an admission fee, which, at the time of writing, is €13 per adult (for the most up-to-date pricing, please consult the Seurasaari Open-Air Museum’s website).
The pedestrian bridge to Seurasaari
Our first stop on Seurasaari was Kahvihuone Mieritz, a quaint café near the pedestrian bridge. We were in need of a pick-me-up, as we were feeling a bit peckish. So, we ordered a couple of pastries, including korvapuusti, my favorite Finnish treat. The pastries had just recently come out of the oven and were still warm, which made them all the more delicious (my mouth is watering just thinking about them).
Pastry pick-me-up
Reenergized, we spent the next couple of hours exploring the island, meandering down its dirt paths, and going inside all of the buildings that our tickets granted us access to. Stepping across the buildings’ thresholds was like traveling back in time, offering us glimpses into the lives of those who lived over a century (or three) ago. Fortunately, none of the houses were crowded when we visited, so we could view them at leisure, checking out every nook and cranny.
Helpful Tidbit
Due to the historic nature of the buildings, the ceilings are often low, and tripping hazards, such as uneven floors, are not uncommon. So, watch your step and your head.
A room inside one of Seurasaari’s historic homes
All of that walking had caused us to build up quite the appetite, so upon concluding our tour of Seurasaari, we called an Uber to take us back to our hotel. From there, we walked to Hills Dumplings for dinner, and the food did not disappoint. We split the Vegan All-In (eight pan-fried dumplings and one bao with chili green beans, jasmine rice, and a daikon-cucumber salad) as well as an order of two vegan baos (as I said, we were hungry). Everything was delicious; it was the perfect meal for our final night in the city.
The Vegan All-In from Hills Dumplings
Not wanting to call it a night quite yet, we rented a couple of scooters and scooted our way to Café Regatta for dessert. The quaint, famously red café is situated right along the water and boasts stunning coastal views. They are best known for their cinnamon rolls (a.k.a., korvapuusti), but they also whip up several other baked goodies, including carrot cake and blueberry pie. As tempted as I was to order the korvapuusti, I decided to branch out and get the blueberry pie, which turned out to be more of a crumb cake than pie. Pie or not, it was delicious, and the cream poured over it imparted both richness and moistness. And the view from our table was the cherry on top.
The picturesque Café Regatta
After polishing off our plates, we walked to the nearby Sibelius Monument, a tribute to the Finnish composer comprising metal pipes and a bust of the man himself. We spent a few minutes walking around the monument and posing for photos, and once we’d had our fill, we took a Bolt back to our hotel.
The Sibelius Monument
And so concluded our final night in Finland.
The following morning, we ate breakfast at our hotel before heading to the airport for our early afternoon flight home. When we landed in Boston later that day, we were already spitballing about a return trip to Finland focused on the country’s Lapland region. We’ve only scratched the surface of Finland and are eager to discover more.
Summing It Up: The 3 Wheres
Where We Went
Ateneum
Bank of Finland
Birka Second Hand**
Esplanade Park
Havis Amanda*
Helsinki Cathedral*
Kamppi district
Kamppi Helsinki
Kauppatori
National Library of Finland
Nuuksio National Park
Hiked the Korpikierros Trail
Canoed in Haukkalampi Pond
Old Church Park
Old Market Hall
Sauna (in our Airbnb)
Seurasaari
Sibelius Monument
Suomenlinna
UFF
Uspenski Cathedral*
Vero Moda
* Via Red Umbrella Tours
**Store has since closed.
Where We Stayed
An Airbnb in the Kamppi neighborhood
Where We Ate
Breakfast
Home-cooked breakfast at our Airbnb
Continental breakfast at our hotel
Lunch
The Cock (that’s the name of the restaurant – get your mind out of the gutter 😆)
Scandinavia Café
Viaporin Deli and Café
Dinner
Emma’s Café and Food
Hills Dumplings
Lazy Fox
Levant
Thai Vegan Kitchen
Dessert/Coffee
Café Esplanad
Café Regatta
Ekberg
Fazer Café
Kaffa Roastery
Kahvihuone Mieritz
Robert’s Coffee
I hope that this guide has proven useful, and as always, if you have any questions, feel free to post them in the comments section!
-Julia
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